Undecided as to what to do to-day, we thought we'd explore more of the south western coast of South Uist and Benbecula.Via Committee Road of course, where we saw a female Hen Harrier and little else. Not good but the best I could manage.
The reported Ring-necked Duck is very elusive, we searched all its favourite lochs on the way south, and on the way back, without success. Those lochs, near the Hebridean Jewellery sign and turn-off, have the most closely inspected Tufted Ducks in the UK. We also diverted to Loch Mhor without seeing Phalaropes, Stinky Bay had no White-winged Gulls either. Hm.
We enjoyed a diversion to the fishing village of Kallin last year, we thought we'd go again.
On a map, Grimsay is difficult to distinguish in the confused mass
of shifting tidal sands, sea, lochs, islands and islets that occupies the area
between North Uist and
Benbecula.
This area is generally known as North
Ford. Until 1960 it was one of the most difficult obstructions to
passage along the length of the Western Isles. A ferry linked
Carinish on
North Uist and Gramisdale on
Benbecula, but could only
operate at high tide. And there was also a ford, the North Ford, usually only
crossed with the help of expert guides.
The route of the ford was marked with cairns, but it shifted
unpredictably with the sands, it could only be passed for an hour either side
of low tide, and it was four miles long. For significant parts of each day the
North Ford was too wet to ford but not wet enough to cross by ferry.
This all changed on 7 September 1960 when the late Queen Mother
opened the North Ford Causeway. This five mile arc of single track road links
North Uist and
Benbecula via the western
tip of Grimsay. It made the newspapers later that week when motorists from
Lochmaddy reached
Lochboisdale within a day
using the new causeway: something unheard of until then.
Grimsay is about four miles long by two wide, and is aligned from
north west to south east. It is encircled by a
single track road that
links most of the island's small crofting and fishing settlements together.
At Grimsay's south east tip is the village of Kallin, the focus for
the island's important and growing fishing fleet. The harbour here was built in
1985. The boats from Kallin fish for shellfish using creels, and flatfish using
long lines. The area is also an important centre for fish farming. A sign of
the importance of Kallin's fisheries are the vehicles you see here from
southern Europe picking up produce for markets and restaurants in Spain or
Italy.
Interesting to look at. The boiling water turmoil in the bay, testament to the sea water that must be pumped into the shellfish holding tanks and then away again. No birds to-day.....
We turned towards the west coast at Drimdale, passing many, sadly, ruined houses and crofts. Many of them surrounded by abandoned machinery, fencing and general twt.
The coast is so lovely, we saw it at its best in to-day's warm hazy sun, with wispy cloud and very little wind.
The last diversion was to Baleshare, a new destination for us. Seduced by the car park and picnic table signs, we followed directions through farmed machair until reaching the sea. An enormous empty bay with an incoming tide.
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| Baleshare |
The machair was moving with mainly Ringed Plovers in super breeding plumage, the male's brighter colours obvious. None of them looked like the tundrae sub species. The few Dunlin had jet black tummies. the beach's busy Sanderling a warm summer brown.
We met Barry B on the way to the main road. He'd seen the Ring-necked Duck this morning, had texted me re a Lesser Yallowlegs on Berneray (awful phone reception here) and gave us info about nesting Artic Skuas. Thank you.
Another compulsive check of Loch Mhor saw two Red-necked Phalarope fly in , circle and fly out. Like giant bumblebees in flight.
Committee Road beckoned, we pass it on the way home. A male Hen Harrier this time. and.......Sue and Ian parked in a layby. They'd seen the Lesser Yellowlegs on Loch Bhusda. Berneray, before it flew off. Negative reports to-night.
They departed to eat out at the Inn, we drove to Aird an Runair. Still a lovely warm evening, the newly opened flowers on the machair a true testament to warmer temperatures. Wild Pansies and Common Storksbill amongst the small Daisies.
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| The Machair |
 |
| Back-lit again |
Three Twite, our first for Uist, flew away from track-side machair as we approached. Camera shy.
Our cottage Corncrake craked as we drove in, then was completely silent. 'Our' Buzzard is sitting on its favoured post, viewable from the kitchen.
An impulsive post supper drive to Committee Road paid immediate dividends. Two Short-eared Owls rose high into the evening bands of dark cloud interspersed with paler grey wisps. One of them then performed an exuberant display, wing-clapping at the apex, dipping a few feet before rising to applaud again. Sheer joie de vivre.
Flashed headlights from a parked car alerted us to ........ Yes, Sue and Ian, post their much enjoyed Monkfish and chips meal at the Westford Inn. A happy Ian had, at last succeeded in his ambition to take a decent photograph of a Short-eared Owl. His pair of birds were at the Sollas end of the road.
Home to finish this and an earlier night.
An impulsive post supper drive to Committee Road paid immediate dividends. Two Short-eared Owls rose high into the evening bands of dark cloud interspersed with paler grey wisps. One of them then performed an exuberant display, wing-clapping at the apex, dipping a few feet before rising to applaud again. Sheer joie de vivre.
Flashed headlights from a parked car alerted us to ........ Yes, Sue and Ian, post their much enjoyed Monkfish and chips meal at the Westford Inn. A happy Ian had, at last succeeded in his ambition to take a decent photograph of a Short-eared Owl. His pair of birds were at the Sollas end of the road.
Home to finish this and an earlier night.
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