Home Journey

Saturday May 19

Always sad when a holiday ends, whilst pleased to be going home. We really could do with at least another week on Uist, if not more. This place has a charm of its own, maybe not to everyone's taste. A Marmite place?

This trip has been enhanced by the affable presence of the Griffins. I'm definitely not sociable by nature, yet have looked forward to meeting them daily, especially on Uist when our cottages were so near, as were the birding sites.

Beds stripped, car packed, we were at the ferry well in time for the 6.45 a.m. deadline. Pam didn't want to go on deck, we sat in a lounge and read. The long journey through Skye was not incident free. We had a half hour Traffic queue wait, Air Ambulance overhead, no cars coming the other way. We think it may have been a motorbike accident, there were certainly plenty of bikers on an appallingly surfaced road. The latter continued all the way to Fort William and beyond. Unbelievably frequent and deep potholes, a worse menace for bikers, life threatening for them. It probably contributed to our 'tyre pressure warning' appearing. We stopped and checked, all was well, 36 all round. Then Pam remembered a previous occasion when the garage had not re-attached the sensor (they didn't know about it) after changing a wheel. That makes the warning come up.

After a good night's sleep at Carlisle Todhills Travelodge, we made good progress in warm sunshine, home by 3.30.

The less said about the FA Cup Final the better. We caught most of the second half last night. It was embarrassing. How can talented players play with so little enthusiasm, skill and thrust. 

Here's to next year.

Pam's Golden Afternoon

Friday May 18

S and I collected the Heath trap this morning - a blank yesterday - so that they could carry it back to Norfolk. 

We'd intended having a quiet day in preparation for the next two days travel, not leaving the cottage until 12.10. It started off very quietly with a drive to Aird an Runair where the machair is in even better bloom than yesterday, mainly delightful, yellow, miniature wild pansies. A Corn Bunting rattled away, resolutely turning his back to me.

More wind than yesterday on an overcast, low grey day, the sea white-topped, having already cleared some of the heaped seaweed off the beach. One Great Northern Diver and a steady stream of high calling Arctic Terns passing by, a small group of Sanderling/Ringed Plover/Dunlin on the beach. The latter only visible when the seaweed seemed to move. Back to the campsite and the end of holiday reward of a hot drink from the kiosk. Pam also had a Coronation Chicken roll and a Rocky Road. She must have been really good.........

We parked in front of the Centre to eat and drink, a good choice. Despite the slight drizzle, two Corncrakes started calling. One of them then ran across the road to the cemetery and into a small patch of Iris the other side of the fence. It showed intermittently as it walked west, calling but, much to my annoyance, the Oriole birding group decided to stand between me (sat in the car) and the bird. Quite oblivious apparently, until Pam asked them to move. They did so at the time but, kept encroaching. We were there first. The worst was the constantly moving leader. Silly to get cross but I missed my photo opportunity.

A phone call from Sue to kindly inform us that they'd located the elusive Ring-necked Duck, sent us scurrying south to Benbecula. I'd got lost somewhere in the directions given, we ended up looking at the wrong loch - again. Not a good place to stop either. There were four Whooper Swans on the wrong loch.

We moved, mainly because of the dodgy parking, intending to view again from a different location when we spotted Ian driving towards us from the Hebridean Jewellers' road. How kind and thoughtful. They'd dragged themselves away from the Red-necked Phalarope and had been watching out for us. The 'correct' loch located.... the bird, seen well five minutes previously in the company of a pair of Tufted Duck had disappeared. Typical of this bird. On advice, we decided to try another nearby loch, drove round the corner and there was the male Ring-necked Duck, on its own. I picked up my camera to find only that the bird had gone and he did not re-appear ! Houdini.

We said our goodbyes and Pam and I drove on to Stinky Bay, which was, very stinky. A queue of Eiders and a host of mainly Herring Gulls.

On to Loch Mhor where Ian had seen a Ruff. I had a very enjoyable ten minutes scoping a male Red-necked Phalarope picking insects from the shoreline, swimming along the edge, restlessly going about living. In the meantime Pam found the Ruff, not a mean feat as only the top of his head was visible at first. A handsome black and chestnut male who obligingly raised his ruff for us, several times. Whilst I was enjoying the Phalarope, Pam saw a Glaucous Gull fly in and land at the far end.

What next ? She called a male Hen Harrier passing through, always a joy to see, every day here.

The birders on here are very friendly and helpful. A soft-spoken man stopped to tell us that he'd seen a Garganey and a Spotted Redshank, 'just over the hump whilst stuck in a marsh'. We drove back to the raised lay-by. I scoped the loch whilst Pam viewed Loch Fada on the other side. I found many pairs of nesting Arctic Terns.  Pam found the jet black Spotted Redshank preening in the grass and then, the Garganey. I managed to see the latter as it flew away. She's red hot to-day.

Maybe we should end the day with Committee Road for the last time and then, the Dotterel at PaiblesGarry. No Raptors on Committee but another sighting of the Arctic Skua pair. Guess who saw them first. 

I tried to photo some newly emerged Bog-bean. with a spectacular lack of success in the dreadful light. That's what I blame anyway.

Another Hen Harrier, a female this time, flying parallel to us before passing very close to Ian and Sue's cottage. They see it regularly.

Waw, a Short-eared Owl with nowhere for us to stop. Guess who spotted it ? We were able to pull in a good hundred yards down the road from where it had landed in front of a house. This is a cropped 'Spot the bird' photo, followed by a hugely cropped one. The only ones I've taken of this bird this year, so I'm putting them in my Blog😆😆

Another chance meeting. The Griffins returning from the Balranald Corncrakes, shortly before the turn off for the Dotterel. We met up in the.parking area in front of a church, thanking them sincerely for their help to-day and exchanging news. Ian peered under our car and advised that we may not have enough clearance to drive the rough track to the Dotterel, Oriole Birding's van had bottomed twice. That did it, no Dotterel for us. We'll meet again at the ferry terminal in the morning. 7.30 a.m. departure, we have to be there by 6.45 at the latest. Goodnight.

Southern Wander

Thursday May 17

Undecided as to what to do to-day, we thought we'd explore more of the south western coast of South Uist and Benbecula.Via Committee Road of course, where we saw a female Hen Harrier and little else. Not good but the best I could manage.

The reported Ring-necked Duck is very elusive, we searched all its favourite lochs on the way south, and on the way back, without success. Those lochs, near the Hebridean Jewellery sign and turn-off, have the most closely inspected Tufted Ducks in the UK. We also diverted to Loch Mhor without seeing Phalaropes, Stinky Bay had no White-winged Gulls either. Hm.

We enjoyed a diversion to the fishing village of Kallin last year, we thought  we'd go again.

On a map, Grimsay is difficult to distinguish in the confused mass of shifting tidal sands, sea, lochs, islands and islets that occupies the area between North Uist and Benbecula.

This area is generally known as North Ford. Until 1960 it was one of the most difficult obstructions to passage along the length of the Western Isles. A ferry linked Carinish on North Uist and Gramisdale on Benbecula, but could only operate at high tide. And there was also a ford, the North Ford, usually only crossed with the help of expert guides.

The route of the ford was marked with cairns, but it shifted unpredictably with the sands, it could only be passed for an hour either side of low tide, and it was four miles long. For significant parts of each day the North Ford was too wet to ford but not wet enough to cross by ferry.

This all changed on 7 September 1960 when the late Queen Mother opened the North Ford Causeway. This five mile arc of single track road links North Uist and Benbecula via the western tip of Grimsay. It made the newspapers later that week when motorists from Lochmaddy reached Lochboisdale within a day using the new causeway: something unheard of until then.

Grimsay is about four miles long by two wide, and is aligned from north west to south east. It is encircled by a single track road that links most of the island's small crofting and fishing settlements together.

At Grimsay's south east tip is the village of Kallin, the focus for the island's important and growing fishing fleet. The harbour here was built in 1985. The boats from Kallin fish for shellfish using creels, and flatfish using long lines. The area is also an important centre for fish farming. A sign of the importance of Kallin's fisheries are the vehicles you see here from southern Europe picking up produce for markets and restaurants in Spain or Italy. 

Interesting to look at. The boiling water turmoil in the bay, testament to the sea water that must be pumped into the shellfish holding tanks and then away again. No birds to-day.....

We turned towards the west coast at Drimdale, passing many, sadly, ruined houses and crofts. Many of them surrounded by abandoned machinery, fencing and general twt.

The coast is so lovely, we saw it at its best in to-day's warm hazy sun, with wispy cloud and very little wind. 

Baleshare

 The last diversion was to Baleshare, a new destination for us. Seduced by the car park and picnic table signs, we followed directions through farmed machair until reaching the sea. An enormous empty bay with an incoming tide. 

The machair was moving with mainly Ringed Plovers in super breeding plumage, the male's brighter colours obvious. None of them looked like the tundrae sub species. The few Dunlin had jet black tummies. the beach's busy Sanderling a warm summer brown.

We met Barry B on the way to the main road. He'd seen the Ring-necked Duck this morning, had texted me re a Lesser Yallowlegs on Berneray (awful phone reception here) and gave us info about nesting Artic Skuas. Thank you.

Another compulsive check of Loch Mhor saw two Red-necked Phalarope fly in , circle and fly out. Like giant bumblebees in flight.

Committee Road beckoned, we pass it on the way home. A male Hen Harrier this time. and.......Sue and Ian parked in a layby. They'd seen the Lesser Yellowlegs on Loch Bhusda. Berneray, before it flew off. Negative reports to-night.

They departed to eat out at the Inn, we drove to Aird an Runair. Still a lovely warm evening, the newly opened flowers on the machair a true testament to warmer temperatures. Wild Pansies and Common Storksbill amongst the small Daisies.

The Machair

One of the Corn Buntings was serenading the day as best he could.

Back-lit again

A full bay at Runair for the first time for us this week. One Great Northern Diver, a steady stream of passing Arctic Terns, a few small waders on the beach.

Three Twite, our first for Uist, flew away from track-side machair as we approached. Camera shy.

Our cottage Corncrake craked as we drove in, then was completely silent. 'Our' Buzzard is sitting on its favoured post, viewable from the kitchen. 
An impulsive post supper drive to Committee Road paid immediate dividends. Two Short-eared Owls rose high into the evening bands of dark cloud interspersed with paler grey wisps. One of them then performed an exuberant display, wing-clapping at the apex, dipping a few feet before rising to applaud again. Sheer joie de vivre.
Flashed headlights from a parked car alerted us to ........ Yes, Sue and Ian, post their much enjoyed Monkfish and chips meal at the Westford Inn. A happy Ian had, at last succeeded in his ambition to take a decent photograph of a Short-eared Owl. His pair of birds were at the Sollas end of the road.
Home to finish this and an earlier night.

Island Travel

Wednesday May 18

What a lovely day. For a sun burnished, scenic, trip to Berneray.

Berneray (Scottish Gaelic: Beàrnaraigh na Hearadh) is an island and community in the Sound of Harris, Scotland. It is one of fifteen inhabited islands in the Outer Hebrides. It is famed for its rich and colourful history which has attracted much tourism.

With an area of 10.1 square kilometres (2496 acres), Berneray rises to a height of 305 feet (93 m) at Beinn Shlèibhe (Moor Hill) and 278 feet (85 m) at Borve Hill. There is strong evidence that points to Berneray being inhabited since the Bronze Age, and possibly before. The island is scattered with ancient sacred sites, stone circles, signs of Viking inhabitation and historical buildings, some several centuries old.

There are a few of the ancient Black Houses left, mostly refurbished, this one we passed in Sollas at the end of Committee Road, looks more authentic than the others we have seen.

The buildings were generally built with double wall dry-stone walls packed with earth, and were roofed with wooden rafters covered with a thatch of turf with cereal straw or reed. The floor was generally flagstones or packed earth and there was a central hearth for the fire. There was no chimney for the smoke to escape through. Instead the smoke made its way through the roof. This led to the soot blackening of the interior which may also have contributed to the adoption of name blackhouse.
The blackhouse was used to accommodate livestock as well as people. People lived at one end and the animals lived at the other with a partition between them.

So many deserted beaches, rocky shores and a well surfaced road, I didn't know where to look next. We made straight for the Youth Hostel at the end of a dead end road. It's placed on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sound of Lewis, also advertising a coffee shop. Whilst scanning the sound for divers, I noticed this line of vertebrae on the beach. Whale?

Only finding Gannets, we drove back more slowly, Pam visiting the Visitors Centre before we parked in a layby to eat lunch whilst watching numerous Harbour Seals sprawled on tide exposed rocks.

Soon after crossing the causeway to North Uist, passing the Lewes ferry, our first Uist Golden Eagle soared overhead. Thanks Pam, I was reading..... Pam is also good at recognising cars. Driving towards us were Sue and Ian on their way to Berneray. The usual jovial chat and information swapping before going our seperate ways. us to Loch Mhor where they'd seen a female Red-necked Phalarope earlier. They're back.

One car already in the first layby at Loch Mhor, room for us too. There below us were TWO Phalaropes, a male and the much more brightly coloured female. Phalaropes reverse the usual sex roles in birds: Females are larger and more colorful than males; females take the lead in courtship, and males are left to incubate the eggs and care for the young.
Sounds like a good plan to me.
They winter in the Pacific and nest in the Arctic, there's a small population in the northern Scottish Islands. 
They are dimunutive and very active birds, I still tried some photography with mixed results - mostly bad.

A few pairs of Arctic Terns also nest on this loch.

A quick check of Stinky Bay, finding no White-winged Gulls but plenty of stink. The seaweed is rotting. The flock of Eiders don't seem to mind.
Committee Road was calling. We added Buzzard and Hen Harrier to the pair of Stonechats we saw here this morning on the way to Berneray. And met Ian and Sue again. They'd loved Berneray too but we both wished we'd known before we went about the Lesser Yellowlegs present there . The news only came through this evening.
More Corncrake noise at last, including 'ours' over the garden wall. None of them showing this evening unfortunately, try again to-morrow.

A Day of Two Halves

Tuesday May 15

Waking to rain pouring down the window does not set the heart racing. Neither is it unxpected - it's Scotland. It did mean a latish start for Aird an Runair via Balranald. We'd been informed that the wind would go north westerly for a couple of hours around mid-day, with the possiblity of a Skua passage. As we drove the sandy dune track to the point, a figure trudged towards us, battling the wind. It was Sue, on her way to the loo. Ian was parked one car away from us, someone had newly vacated a space, leaving room for one car on the front row. Later, the car next to Ian also left and we ended up parked close enough to have a conversation - short ones as it was cold with the windows down.

We'd missed a perched Glaucous and a fly-by Iceland Gull but added Little Tern, Great Skua, 2 close Pomarine Skas and three Arctic Skuas in the next couple of hours.

Ian and Sue left to walk to the Point. Pam and I drove north along the coast, before returning to drive Committee Road in intermittent sun.

We ended with a pair of Hen Harriers - how wonderful is it to see them daily - a Buzzard, Raven and a Kestrel. The Griffins also made the road their nightly visit before retiring.

Except that we did not retire. It was a beautiful evening, golden light, blue sky with banks of contrasting white cloud. And wind.North through HoughHarry past Balranald and along the coast as far as our Corncrake, Iris gully. That bay was almost full of water, it shelves steeply so does not have an enormous, white shell sand expanse, at any time. Small waders dashed about in small clouds as their rocks were covered, the sea thrown against the rocks and rugged coastline giving white-splash interest to the scene.

A Common Gull cruised by, effortlessly using the wind to progress in their endless search.

No sign of the Corncrake to-night, Immaculate but very wary Rock Doves refused to be photographed. This female Wheatear dotted and dashed the machair, never getting quite close enough.

Wow. Pam called ''Skua''. One dark phase and, one striking pale phase, Arctic Skua, arrowed across the other side of the lochan, departing swiftly over the hillside. I managed to get a photograph..........spot the skua.

The large number of stays in the photo are necessary to anchor aerials in the wind. 
Another very enjoyable day with plenty of birds to keep us happy on these lovely islands.

Good company makes it fun too.

Guiding Friends

Monday May 14

Remembering well how de-skilled and lost we felt when first visiting the Uists, we offered to show Sue and Ian some of the birding hotspots. They were ready and waiting in their car, outside their cottage, when we drew up at 10.05 on an overcast, spitty rain and windy morning. Lovely.

Many people, me included, would love a home overlooking water, especially the sea. On the Uists it would be difficult to find one without a water view. Gone were the  blue sparkles of yesterday, grey and flat to-day. Not many birds about as we hastened towards Lochs Mor and Fada on Benbecula,  where the Red-necked Phalaropes breed. Rather early for them to make an appearance and they didn't. A good site to tick off though. 

Nearby Stinky Bay lived up to its name, the hillocks of seaweed already redolent. The sooner some of it is harvested for spreading on the machair the better. Farming the machair is encouraged as it keeps the land in good heart, spread seaweed fertilises naturally and historically, shallow tilling ensures that wild flower seeds are not dug too deep and will blossom again during the fallow years.

Ardnavachar and The Range (disused military firing range) next. Very few birds on the machair to-day. 

Ian had a message to say that a Ring-necked Duck had been seen on a loch we'd already passed by. First things first... coffee for all, cake for Pam and a shared scone for Ian and Sue, before a drooling inspection of the beautiful jewellery on display in the Hebridean Jewellery and cafe store.

We didn't find the reported duck, only a pair of Tufted Duck and a Coot. Probably a short drop-in visit.

Loch Aionart in South Uist is a favourite spot of ours. A lovely rocky sea inlet ending in a small parking area beside a small wood, the latter is rare on here. Probably because of the weather so far, we found room to park for once. After a late picnic lunch I and S went for a walk through the wood seeing very little. Golden Eagles are not going to be flying in this. At least a hundred Harbour Seals lay on the rocky islands below, their abandoned loafing has a charm of its own. Oh for some sun, it definitely lends enchantment to the view.

Six Red-breasted Mergansers, four drakes and two females entertained me with their courting display and ritual chasing of the females/ aggression towards other males.

Shortly before leaving, the sun appeared. Sporadic at first, becoming more general. Having shown the enormous Lady of the Isles sculpture half way up the hillside, we had another abortive go at the Ring-necked Duck site.

After a welcome cuppa at Ian and Sue's cottage, Pam and I drove Committee Road - getting withdrawal symptoms. Pam halted in a passing place having seen what turned out to be two Arctic Skuas harrying a Merlin up and around a lochan. What a display. Almost too fast to keep track of their jinking, merciless, pursuit of the smaller bird. Waw.

A short glimpse of a Hen Harrier completed the evening birding.

I had a mammal tick to-day too, a dead Hedgehog on the road. I don't count dead beasties but it's notable for being the first.

Contra Jour - All Day

Sunday May 13

Arriving at Aird an Runair, Balranald, mid morning we found that we were parked next to Sue and Ian. They had been watching the Semi-palmated Sandpiper, stating that it was only a short walk. I'd had a bad and short night on a hard mattress and a short walk is a nightmare in those conditions. I now wish I'd made the effort - because I feel better I expect. If it had been a lifer, I wouldn't have hesitated. Nice bird though.

The Corn Bunting was in good voice, elegant, graceful, Arctic Terns always a joy.

The machair had a number of Great Ringed Plovers scurrying about restlessly. Never quite close enough and backlit, as all the birds seemed to be to-day. 

 After sorting through the small waders on the huge swathes of seaweed, we drove north on a minor track which follows the coast. As is usual on Uist, more sandy bays, rocks and waders plus a few Eiders.

Deciding to return to the 'main' road, we turned and immediately heard a Corncrake craking. The iris are very short this year in a late spring (Summer?), surely it should be easy to spot him. Ha Ha. He sounded as though he was underneath the car. Eventually Pam saw him on the far bank of a small gully of Iris. I know that he puts his head up when he calls but first find your bird. As soon as you do, the head goes down and he moves stealthily away, needing to be re-located. Here we go again. I managed a few shots, none of which please me.

Much of the mid to late afternoon was spent driving up to the Geodesic Dome, from which we saw a White-tailed Eagle and then, Committee road. Three Hen Harriers, including a two tone grey and black wing-tipped male and two Short-eared Owls. The latter was a nest change-over. One bird dropping out of view as the other, paler bird, rose from the heather.

A Raven paid a short visit and then a Buzzard idly spiralled into the blue sky before dropping fast into the valley, rising with a rat in its talons. The rat's long, furless tail, clearly seen dangling below.

Island Change

Saturday May 12

This - Medina - is the best B and B we have ever used. A lovely, well and tastefully furnished room, large bathroom, room to sit and use my laptop at a bureau and a good breakfast. Last but not least, a landlady who loves White-tailed Eagles and whose brother does the boat trips to see the Portree pair.

Making our leisurely  way to the Uig ferry on a beautiful sunny day, we took an unmarked, grass centred, side road which ended at a large  enviable house beside the sea. Quick reverse to an almost circular open cave like area where we could park to enjoy the view. Good choice. Two male Wheatears were squabbling over territory, one female made a short appearance but neither took any notice of her.

Small movements at grass level betrayed the presence of a few Twite. They are such restless birds, not still for more than a second or two. I got several accidental flight photographs again and this one which is acceptable - if not of the whole bird.

Too early for the ferry really but we can usually see birds in the bay. Not to-day, all our previously used parking spot have been coned off by the house owners who live opposite. I'd got the Saturday Daily Telegraph prize crossword to do and Pam was enjoying her book so we checked in and were first in the disabled queue line. Then.... Barry Barnacal drew in behind us and he and Pam had a lengthy conversation, ending in the exchange of mobile numbers and an invitation to coffee.

Carrying on with my crossword, I almost hit the ceiling when an unseen Ian spoke to me. Thank goodness they managed to find a B and B last night after all, lucky that there was a cancellation fifteen minutes before they knocked.

The boat was nearly an hour late arriving and therefore leaving. Pam and I sat in the roofed open area at the rear, under the top deck. The birding was very slow compared with previous years. A smattering of Puffins, Guillemots and Razorbills, three Gannets, a few Kittiwakes and about twenty Terns around an upwelling, full of food. Mainly Common with a few Arctic.

After an hour, I was getting cold so we went in for a hot drink. A chat with Sue and then Ian helped pass the time pleasantly before disembarking at Lochmaddy. 

We were first off the ferry and thoroughly enjoyed bowling along traffic free roads on a good surface, the sun gilding the unspectacular scenery. North Uist is flat compared with Mull but it has its own charm for us. 

The gate to our cottage was open, we drove straight in, emptied the car  and immediately drove to Balranald and Aird an Runair - the peninsula beyond the centre where we seawatch across and along, a spectacular bay. The latter had a very thick, wide and lustrous shoreline of fresh seaweed, more than we've ever seen here before. Last couple of days storm I suppose.

More of the machair has been - and still is - ploughed this year. Well it's their land, tourists think it's a shame. All those precious machair flowers, the seeds will survive though.

A few Arctic Terns flew through, Turnstones, Dunlin Great Ringed Plover and Sanderling  scurried along the water's edge feeding on the insect rich weed. Our first Corn Bunting of the year jangled from the top of a weed, two Whimbrel seemed to be contemplating life from a dune shelter.

Only a short way back towards the campsite, Barry pulled up and told us of a Semipalmated Sandpiper seen 'in the bay'. We returned to find no sign of Barry, he has a proper 4x4 Discovery and had driven on much further down an almost track. Needle in a haystack task. We cut our losses and left.
The farmer had called his cattle off the beach. They were in their pen feeding. Unusually, this had attracted a large number of gulls. We've not seen that before.What was the feed?

 Another check of the lochans seen on the way in. Nothing to add to the Wigeon, Whooper Swan, Little Grebe, Moorhen and Tufted Duck seen on the way out.

Known as Committee Road yet signposted Sollas, is a favourite run of ours. Especially good for raptors, the road climbs through moorland to what passes for a mountain before descending to Sollas. There's a bird table at the only house on the road, Siskin, Goldfinch, Chaffinch and a Blackbird, none of them common birds on here.On the return journey, a Hen Harrier was quartering the fence line along a distant plantation. Extraordinarily difficult to see against the dark heather. Female or immature male? It then crossed in front of the car and I took a few hasty shots as it sped up the hill and out of view.

We met Sue and Ian at the T junction, Sue had kindly phoned me earlier to inform me of the Semi-P and 3 Dotterel at PaiblesGarry. I'm still a total dumbo with the Android smartphone and didn't manage to fish it out in time to respond - didn't recognise the ring tone at first. I did manage to return the call....... Without a pager and my Iphone I don't have Bird Alert messages in the field. I have to wait to check my laptop. Nuisance.

More than time for bed, forecast looks OK for to-morrow but our moth trap wouldn't light up to-night. Too tired to deal with it now, will check in the morning.

 

I Wish

Friday May 11

I felt a bit cheated this morning in that our Mull stay is shortened by one day because of different changeover days and, the need to spend a night on Skye so that we can catch the Saturday afternoon ferry to Lochmaddy, North Uist. If there was a very early ferry from Mull we could leave on the Saturday and still make it. 7.25 a.m. is not early enough.

Even better would be a transfer capsule complete with luggage packer. I wish.

We left Dervaig in a howling gale, open car doors banged shut and the tops of the mature conifers whipped like saplings. Queued up behind a rubbish lorry on the slipway at Fishnish, who should pull in behind but Sue and Ian. Of all the chances. Very long odds indeed. They intended stopping off at Strontian on Ardnamurchan to search for the long staying Black Duck. Thank goodness we've seen one - on Tresco before it was shot by hunters.

First stop was Morrisons in Fort William to stock up on petrol and shopping, before the lengthy drive to Kyle of Lochalsh and Skye bridge. Scenically lovely. Snow capped and gullied mountain ridges, lochs and rocky rivers, forests and glens. Slowish though, very few chances to overtake and a lot of holiday motorhomes and offroad bikes. Plus a long delay due to re-surfacing, where we had to wait for an escort vehicle before proceeding. All the flashing police car blues was explained at the other end. Three mighty lorries transporting what looked like giant turbine blades, waited to be escorted through.

Then it rained. A lot and for a long time.

My first visit to Skye was rather a long time ago, on a camping expedition with a group of 14 year old boys in Mike Shewan's campervan, sitting across tents and rucksacks that didn't fit on top. The road to Lochalsh was dirt, frequent stops were necessary to allow herds of Red Deer to cross. And, we under-estimated the time needed for the journey and had to camp overnight in the middle of nowhere. The crossing to Skye was by boat then too. I believe I serenaded the gang with a rendition of ' Speed Bonnie Boat Like a Bird on the Wing '. Eat your heart out Joan Sutherland. We then camped on the beach in the Cuillins where Highland cows ate seaweed, the walk to the loo was hazardously muddy and it never stopped raining. Great fun. The boys loved it.

This camping site is also where a friend of my daughter Sara went to the loo on the mountainside equipped with trowel, paper and matches, as recommended. She set fire to the paper - best practice - and set the hillside on fire too. She did have a penchant for accidents. Must have been drier in those days.

We have a new B and B this year, recommended to us by our usual one in Portree - he's in hospital for an operation. Never having been before, following complicated instructions,  we drove miles too far and had to turn round. The wrong turning was atually in Portree !! Once we got back to the correct turning, it was easy to follow the given route to the bungalow where we were  warmly welcomed by the landlady. Our en suite room is lovely. Spacious and well furnished, the bed looks high enough to get out of easily☺.

Breakfast at 8.00 in the morning with plenty of time to drive to Uig and the ferry terminal. Fingers crossed that the sea has abated by then, after to-day's gale.

Two Pams Day

Thursday May 10

Our decision to spend the day on a Pam and Arthur Brown tour turned out splendidly. We both had a lovely day with nice people and good wildlife. And........good weather. Sun all day apart from a short sharp shower, hurled by a stiff south westerly, during lunch.
Due to start at 9.15, we arrived at the Brown's farm at 9.10 to find the other six participants already there. One married couple and their 20+ son, another couple and a single older woman who was staying in the Brown's self catering. Oh dear, all had cameras, only one wore binoculars.  A false impression. All were keen birders of differing experience, the bins appeared from somewhere. Pam Brown was pleased by this as sometimes they get people who are not interested in Natural History at all, or, only want to see Otters and Eagles.
Pam B sorted us into our seats for the day - they usually change round - Pam T in the front, Maggie and I in the centre with our own exit, the family in the back. Good plan. I never did get everyone's name.
Visiting the adjacent White-tailed Eagle nest got the day off to a good start, followed by a male Hen Harrier along the Loch Frisa entry track.  Pam B then found a female Hen Harrier along the Glen Aros road.
No sooner had we reached the southern shore of Loch na Keal than there was a call of 'Otter' from Stephen in the back seat. A smooth, sleek, bundle of muscle, dog Otter running through the seaweed on the loch's near shore, before dropping back into the water and disappearing out of sight. I managed three iffy shots through the tinted window. I'm not happy with any but......

Disappearing into the water - headless male Otter

Two more White-tailed Eagles sitting on an island, same two as on Tuesday we think, and another flew across the loch very determinedly before returning low and fast with food. By the end of the day we'd seen six WhEagles, one Golden Eagle and four Hen Harriers.  A highlight for me was watching a pair of Hen Harriers in display flight, the legendary Sky Dancing. Awesome. We had twenty more Whimbrels in three groups, many Great Northern Divers and Red-breasted Mergansers. This GN Diver at Ulva Ferry was in full summer plumage. The water really was this colour.

Our first views of Greenshank at Loch Cuin - all but two of the Dunlin had moved on - and a couple of Kestrels.  Buzzards are a regular sighting as are Ravens and Hooded Crows.
Pam B's historical and geographical knowledge is impressive. I once said that all roads out o the sea in Scotland are dead ends - cemeteries. Pam explained that any land it was possible to cultivate was not used for burial, rocky barren areas were chosen and then soil imported from elsewhere to help cover the bodies. Railings around graves were there to deter body snatchers. She evn managed to add more detail to Arthur's Inch Kenneth, Mitford sisters story.

The island is 55 hectares in area and is Geologically different from the rest of Mull. Inch Kenneth is one of the most historically important islands in Scotland. Along with Iona, this island has a significant number of important burials of the kings of Scotland. The island (Innis Choinnich) was named after St Kenneth, who founded a monastery on the island.
Composed of sedimentary conglomerates and limestones, Inch Kenneth is a fertile oasis amidst the volcanic lava flows that predominate much of Mull’s landscapes. The island’s fine, sandy soil promotes flower-rich grassland in Spring and Summer, while providing nourishment for a 200-strong herd of Barnacle Geese that arrive each Autumn from breeding grounds in Greenland.
Inch Kenneth was the home of the song writer and philanthropist, Sir Harold Bolton. Bolton wrote the lyrics to the ‘Skye Boat Song’. The island became infamous during the Second World War due to its connection with the Mitford family, who bought the island in 1938.
One of six sisters, Unity Mitford was a staunch supporter of the Fascist movement and an admirer of Adolf Hitler, with whom she became a friend. Held back in her early life by her prettier and more clever sisters, Unity craved attention and developed a desire to shock. An exhibitionist, with a coarse sense of humour, Unity discovered that her love of Nazism allowed her to stand out from the crowd. Having attempted suicide, with a pistol given to her by the Fuhrer, when the Second World War was declared, Unity returned to Britain and spent her last years on Inch Kenneth. There she spent her time improvising religious services in the medieval chapel and planning her own funeral.
Following the death of their mother, Lady Redesdale in 1963, the island was inherited by the surviving Mitford sisters. Diana, Nancy, Deborah and Pamela sold their shares in the island to their sister and fellow beneficiary Jessica. Jessica had previously let it be known that she would donate her part of the island to the Communist Party, and Lord Redesdale cut her out of his will.
The island was sold by Jessica Mitford in the late 1960s and it remains under private ownership. The house belongs now to Charles Darwin’s grand-daughter and is still accessed by a small rowing boat, depending on weather.

A lovely and most enjoyable day to end our all too short stay on Mull.
Drive to Skye to-morrow, for a night's B and B before travelling to Lochmaddy, North Uist, by Caledonian McBrayne ferry from Uig on Saturday afternoon.

More Dreich

Weds May 9

In no hurry to leave a warm bed this morning. The opened curtains showed leaden skies and steady rain. The moth trap was dry, the rain must have just started. This cottage is supposed to have underfloor heating. Not discernable. Pam's warm enough, I'm not.

Checking my Emails, I found the following response from the organiser of to-morrow's planned eight hour wildlife cruise from Tobermory. We were let down last year, I mailed them to check that all was well for this year.

Hi Anne,

Thanks for getting in touch.

At the moment, yes. However, we are keeping a close eye on the weather. At the moment it is forecast to be very windy tomorrow, calmer on Thursday but then a strong gale on Friday. So on it’s own, at this point, we would be going out on Thursday. However, with strong winds tomorrow there may be some residual swell that could become problematic with moderate winds on Thursday, so there is a very real chance that tomorrow we may have to cancel for Thursday but we would rather wait and get the updated Met Office inshore waters forecast before we make the call. I’ve had it in the past where we’ve cancelled a couple of days in advance and it actually turns out to be a very nice day and everyone has missed out for no reason. 

Do you have a deadline or cut-off point by which you need to know? We’ve normally got the up-to-date forecast in our hands by 1pm and then a short chat with the skipper before I send an email if we do need to cancel. I will have a better idea of whether we will be going ahead or not earlier in the morning if you need to know earlier than that?

Best wishes,

Richard

Sea Life Surveys

Taigh Solais

Ledaig

Tobermory

Isle of Mull

PA75 6NR

Having read this, we cancelled and have had a full, unrequested, refund. Most impressive.

As a day off for Pam, Discover Mull had two places for to-morrow , we called in to their farm and booked them. Pam Brown is leading to-morrow, we shall miss Arthur but Pam B is good too.

Despite the rain, we departed for Tobermory at 11.45. The hordes of Siskin etc here have eaten all our sunflower hearts and we needed to replenish. Unfortunately she couldn't get any, returning to the car rather wet but happy, having seen a Dipper in the stream near the car park.

Aros Park is one of the largest deciduous woodland on Mull with a lake, river and numerous rocky, white foaming, downhill rushing, streams. We were hoping for Wood Warbler here. Only Song Thrush, Blackbird and Robin, defied the rain.

Salen Spar had a Telegraph for me and Thousand Island dressing for Pam, she's tired of Vinaigrette on her nightly salad. After filling up with petrol, we returned to Dervaig via Aros Glen, checking the bay for waders. About twenty Dunlin, a Redshank, one Great Ringed Plover and four male Goosanders flew in.

Yes, the female WhEagle was on the nest, no sign of the hoped for sitting male. No self respecting raptor will be flying to-day.

On to Caliach Point, the most north-westerly point on Mull, noted for its sea watching possibilities. There was a big swell and the waves were crashing in, not as big a sea as we'd expected from the very strong wind. It was difficult for me to hold the car door open in order to get out and open the gate, part of the way out there.

Wheatear, Twite and Meadow Pipits - Arthur calls the latter plankton - around the moor-like shore, Gannets, Fulmar, a few Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, Great Northern Divers, Shags and a few Manx Shearwaters passing by.

Still raining.......

Time to get back to the cottage. It stopped raining at 4.30. We checked the Eagle nest again and then the bay, nothing new, and retired for the evening.

Ian sent me this photo of a Corncrake which he took yesterday from behind the Fire Station on Iona. Such a tricky bird to see, let alone photograph.